Large ovenproof braiser (3.5–5 qt) or deep skillet
Large pot for pasta
wooden spoon
Microplane or zester
Measuring Cups and Spoons
Ingredients
Bolognese Sauce
2tablespoonsolive oil
4ouncesguancialeor pancetta, diced
1small yellow onionfinely chopped
1small carrotfinely chopped
1small celery ribfinely chopped
3garlic clovesminced
2anchovy filletsoptional
2tablespoonstomato paste
1poundground beef80–85 percent lean
½poundground pork
½cupdry white wine
1cupwhole milk
128-ounce can crushed tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
½cuplow-sodium beef or chicken stock
1Parmigiano Reggiano rind
1bay leaf
2teaspoonskosher saltplus more to taste
1teaspoonfreshly ground black pepper
¼teaspoonred pepper flakesoptional
Pasta and Cheese
1poundpastarigatoni or paccheri or mafaldine
¾cupfinely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
¼cupfinely grated Pecorino Romano
8ounceslow-moisture mozzarellashredded
Brown Butter Panko (optional)
2tablespoonsunsalted butter
¾cuppanko breadcrumbs
Pinchkosher salt
Instructions
Build the Sauce
Heat the olive oil in the braiser over medium heat. Add the guanciale and cook until lightly crisp and the fat has rendered. Add the onion, carrot, and celery with a pinch of salt and cook until soft. Stir in the garlic and anchovies until fragrant. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, until it darkens and becomes sweet.
Add the beef and pork. Season with salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes. Cook until browned, breaking the meat into small pieces.
Pour in the white wine and simmer, scraping up the browned bits. Stir in the milk and let it come together.
Add the crushed tomatoes, stock, Parmigiano rind, and bay leaf. Bring to a gentle simmer, reduce the heat to low, and cook partially covered for about 1 hour, stirring occasionally, until thick, glossy, and concentrated. Remove the rind and bay leaf. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Cook the Pasta
Heat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit (220 degrees Celsius). Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta until 2 minutes shy of al dente. Reserve some pasta water, then drain.
Stir the Parmigiano and Pecorino into the sauce. Add the pasta and toss to coat, loosening with splashes of pasta water until the sauce clings nicely.
Optional Brown Butter Panko
Melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat until nutty and golden. Stir in the panko and a pinch of salt. Toast to pale gold and set aside.
Bake and Finish
Spread the pasta evenly in the braiser. Scatter the mozzarella on top. Bake on the middle rack until bubbling and golden. Broil briefly for deeper color if you like.
If using panko, sprinkle it on during the last few minutes of baking or right before serving for maximum crunch. Let it rest briefly before serving.
Notes
Let the sauce rest for 5 minutes off the heat before mixing in the pasta. This quick pause helps the mixture thicken slightly so it hugs the rigatoni instead of sliding off.
Keep the pasta only lightly sauced before it goes into the oven. The sauce will loosen as it bakes, so starting with a slightly thicker mixture gives you the best texture and prevents a watery bake.
Bake on the middle rack for the most even browning. It keeps the bottom from drying out and gives the mozzarella enough direct heat to turn golden without overbaking the pasta underneath.